Manchu hairstyle-Qitou

November 4th, 2010

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Manchu hairstyle and headwear are unique, especially Manchu females’ headwear. It is elegant and magnificent, natural and graceful.

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In the Qing Dynasty (1616-1911), Manchu adult men shaved all the hair off the front head, only leaving the hair on the top and at the back of the head, plaiting it into a tail hanging behind, mainly for the convenience of riding on a horse and hunting animals in the forest in mountainous area.

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Manchus thought the pigtail is where the true soul inhabits, regarding it as the essence of life. So, if aBaqi(Eight-Banner) officer or soldier dies afield, his pigtail must be taken back to his hometown, to be buried solemnly, which was alled”Shao xiao bian”(sending back the pigtail).

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Before a Manchu woman grows up, she wears a single pigtail hanging behind; at the end of the pigtail is wound with a red cord, the front hair is cut into a bang, and often a bead made of gold or silver or jewelry is fastened on the tip of the pigtail, which is swinging with the wind, to show a sense of beauty.

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Manchu married women must arrange their hair into a bun, with a silverBianfang(an ornamental stick) thrust in it, called “Gaoliangtou” (sorghum-shaped hairstyle). The most typical one is the “Liangbatou”: tying the hair on the top of the head, plaiting it into a shape of swallowtail, letting the long hair hang on the back neck, and putting a fan-shaped hair coronet on it. This hairstyle is called “Qitou” (hair of the Manchu nobility) or “Jingtou” (hair of the capital).

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Manchu women like fresh flowers, and often put aYahuazan(flower-pressing hairpin) orZhuhuazan(flower-bead hairpin) made of gold, silver or emerald, in their hair. Manchu women have always valued hairstyle and headwear, and never done foot binding, thus renowned for “golden head and heavenly feet”.

Manchus and cheongsam

November 4th, 2010

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The practice of wearing the cheongsam started in the Qing Dynasty, when the Manchu established rule in the whole country. Manchu women were required to wear a garment called the qipao, which was a one-piece dress. The qipao was loose-fitting and covered most of the woman’s body. The wearing of the Manchurian qipao was a way to abolish the practice of donning Han Chinese clothing.

 

After 300 years, the cheongsam underwent several alterations and modification to turn the clothing into something more suitable for the modern day Chinese population. Eventually, the cheongsam became the prototypical garment worn by Chinese women.

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The modernized cheongsam featured a form-fitting and high cut dress with a slender silhouette. Instead of hiding the wearer’s curves, the modern cheongsam is now used to highlight and accentuate the woman’s natural body shape.

 

Although the cheongsam’s popularity in Shanghai waned during the 1949 Communist Revolution, the Shanghainese refugees and migrants brought the cheongsam to Hong Kong fashion where its popularity continues today.

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Due to the restrictive nature of the dress and the heightened popularity of Western clothing, the cheongsam is now commonly recognized either as a uniform for different establishments and companies or a type of Chinese formal wear.

 

Modern Cheongsam Styles:

 

Chinese women wearing colored cheongsam

Today, you will find numerous cheongsams and cheongsam-inspired wedding dresses on the market. The key to finding the perfect cheongsam is looking for the style that suits you and appeals to you best. Cheongsams come in different colors and modern designs.

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A black silk cheongsam dress

 

If you want to follow tradition, wear a red cheongsam on your wedding day. The color red is considered lucky in Chinese culture, and since luck is something that most newlyweds wish for themselves, then the color seems particularly apt for a wedding.

 

While most cheongsams come in sleeveless designs, you will also find a number of this type of clothing with capped sleeves and long wide sleeves. Cheongsams also come in different lengths. For a more sophisticated and formal look, go for a long-sleeved, ankle or floor-length cheongsam. If you want a more playful and modern appearance, then find a short and sleeveless mandarin gown.

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Another factor you have to consider when choosing between cheongsams has to do with decorations. Pick a cheongsam with intricate detailing or embroidery. Famous motifs used for cheongsams include delicate blossoms, the bright phoenix and amazingly detailed dragons.

Manchu’s (Jurchen descendant) brief introduction

November 4th, 2010

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The Manchu people are a Tungusic people who originated in Manchuria (today’s northeastern China). During their rise in the 17th century, with the help of the Ming dynasty rebels (such as general Wu Sangui), they came to power in China and founded the Qing Dynasty, which ruled China until the Xinhai Revolution of 1911, which established a republican government in its place.

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The Manchu ethnicity has largely been assimilated with the Han Chinese. The Manchu language is almost extinct, now spoken only among a small number of elderly people in remote rural areas of northeastern China and a few scholars; there are around ten thousand speakers of Sibe (Xibo), a Manchu dialect spoken in the Ili region of Xinjiang. In recent years, however, there has been a resurgence of interest in Manchu culture among both ethnic Manchus and Han. The number of Chinese today with some Manchu ancestry is quite large – with 10.68 million members (in China), Manchu is the 3rd largest ethnic group in China after the Han and the Zhuang. The adoption of favorable policies towards ethnic minorities (such as preferential university admission, government employment opportunities and exemption from the one child policy) has encouraged some people with mixed Han and Manchu ancestry to re-identify themselves as Manchu.

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The first ancestors of the Manchu were the Sushen, a people who lived during the second and first millennia BC. They were followed by the Yilou people, who were active from AD 202 to 220. The Wuji followed in the 5th century and the tribes of the Mohe in the 6th century. One of the tribes of the Mohe, the Heishui (Amur River) tribe, eventually became the ancestors of the Jurchens, from whom the Manchu originated.

 

The Jurchens under the Wanyan clan established the Jin Dynasty (literally Golden Dynasty) that ruled the northern half of China (1115–1234) and rivaled the Song Dynasty in southern China. The Jin were conquered by the Mongols under Genghis Khan.

 

Before the 17th century, the ancestors of the Manchus were generally a pastoral people, hunting, fishing and engaging in limited agriculture and pig-farming.

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One of the old traditions of Manchu is the system of bondservants, booi aha or just booi, translated into Mandarin as nucai. The Jurchen tribes employed booi as early as the 15th century, and it was common practice for Manchu military commanders to have their field and house bondservants serving in booi units during military campaigns. The booi differ from Chinese bond slavery in a few key ways, and are somewhat akin to the European feudal liege-bondsman relation. Firstly, booi status is hereditary, similar to a social caste. However, booi were not viewed as properties (although sales of bondservants did occur). Thirdly, booi is more a matter of rank and heredity rather than profession or social status. Indeed, many booi were richly rewarded by their bondmasters, and amassed great wealth and power. Booi status to the imperial Aisin Gioro clan was very prestigious, and they retained the privillege to call themselves “nucai” (slave) when addressing their Aisin Gioro lords.

 

In 1673 the killing of a ‘booi’s slaves to accompany their dead master to the grave was outlawed.

Chinese art and craft – clay figurine

October 28th, 2010

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Clay figurine is one of antiquated folk arts in China. The clay is taken as raw material and manually kneaded into a figurine and the sculptures are mainly the characters and animals.

 

This kind of art can date back to the Neolithic Period. The time of pottery pig and sheep unearthed in Hemudu ancient cultural relic of Zhejiang Province is about six thousand to seven thousand years ago; the time of antique pottery, clay pig and clay sheep head unearthed in Peiligang ancient cultural relic of Xinzheng, Henan Province is about seven thousand years ago.

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However it was until the Ming and Qing dynasties that the clay figurine had been substantially produced and became one of the main artworks in the mass’s cultural life.

 

The art of clay figurine is divided into two branches in China: Wuxi Huishan Clay Figurine and Tianjin “Clay Figurine Zhang”. The Huishan Clay Figurine which stems from the western suburb of Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province begun in the Southern Dynasty and flourished in the Ming Dynasty and had a history of over one thousand years.

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The most famous character of “Big A’fu” is rich and brisk, deep and concise in sculpture, bright and ardent in color, full of a rich native tinge. Tianjin “Clay Figurine Zhang” was initiated in Daoguang Period of the Qing Dynasty and had a history of 180 years. Zhang Mingshan (1826-1906) was the initiator of “Clay Figurine Zhang”. It is said that he could complete a lifelike clay figurine with vivid facial expression in a minute while sitting and talking to others. Xu Beihong, the famous contemporary Chinese painter, applauded him as a great folk sculptor in China.

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In 1992, the representative works “Big A’fu” of Huishan clay figurine was designated as the tourism mascot at that year by the State Tourism Bureau; at a Chinese modern art gallery in Ashiya, Japan, a special display room was built for the painted sculptures of Tianjin “Clay Figurine Zhang”.

 

The art of clay figurine has already walked out of the national gate and become an envoy for the communication between the Chinese and foreign cultures and been gradually accepted and cherished by more and more nations and people.

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